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To balance a wine with a meal requires knowledge of the different textures and flavours of both
items. Here I have chosen a few restaurants to highlight these important aspects.
T-bone, eggs, chips and coleslaw
A very Aussie dish that presents a range of strong flavours. The char-grilled
steak is balanced by a high tannin wine. The salty, oily characteristics in
the meal are best balanced by firm acid and some fruity and savory flavours.
A young cabernet from Margaret River, a classically good cabernet region, is
the perfect choice.
The fried egg requires high acid, tannin and sweet fruit to balance the egg’s
cloying texture. The oily character of the hot chips is balanced by a cleansing
acid, allowing the fruit flavours and the potato flavours to become more
apparent. John Kilroy of Cha Cha Char is a beef specialist and the succulent,
complex flavours of his grass-fed beef deserves a wine to provide the right
balance.
The “Sandalford Mt Barker Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 ” has perfumed aromas of blackcurrant and roasted capsicum. This is merged with
just a touch of oak on a generously proportioned palate, balanced by fine
tannins. This wine will do justice to a t-bone.
Zucchini fritters topped with double brie and chili jam
A flavoursome dish. Herbs and salty spiciness in the fritters with the
creamy texture of the double brie and a side pot of chilli jam.
For white wine drinkers, a Riesling, maybe a Pewsey Vale Riesling, a
Clare or Mt Barker WA Riesling with a little age, could cope with the
strong, creamy and spicy flavours. For red wine drinkers, try one of
the Italian varieties Sangiovese, Barbera or a Dolcetto, but you need
not go to an Italian wine. Gary Crittenden, Coriole, Montrose, Brown
Brothers and others all produce Australian Italian wines.
“Brown Brothers Dolcetto & Syrah 2006” would be a delicious match
for this. The sweetness would balance the sweet chili,
while the savory fruit and tannin will match the double brie. Dolcetto,
Italian for “little sweet one” is a fresh exuberant wine with fragrant
aromas of juicy raspberries and a fruit driven gently frizzante palate
with soft tannins, the flavour of ripe summer berries and a structure of
earthy, savoury characters.
“Whitebait fritters”
Whitebait has a delicate flavour, so it is important to choose a wine
that is also delicate. It’s vital that the characteristics of the
whitebait aren’t dominated by the wine. A young, unwooded Semillon,
Riesling or Sauvignon Blanc would suit. The whitebait fritters are fried,
so a high acid wine will cut through any oiliness.
The “Taltarni 2007 Sauvignon Blanc”, the Pyrenees region of Victoria, has lifted tropical
fruit, zingy intense acid and fresh citrus characters. The tropical fruit
characters are nicely balanced by the saltiness in the fritters. Sauvignon
Blanc is a perfect aperitif wine, its zesty fruit and acid balance, wakes
up the palate and prepares you for food.
Tempura banana with coconut ice cream and sticky caramel sauce
Dessert wines are a lovely accompaniment to a special dessert. Botrytis
is a fungus which coats the ripe bunches and dehydrates, thus
concentrating the remaining juice. The botrytis also has its own
acid which provides nutty, apricot flavours and a clean, dry finish
to balance the grape sugars in the wine.
The tempura banana is deep-fried, so a high acid wine is required, but the sweetness and
complex flavours of the dessert require a wine to lift and balance.
A late-picked Gewurztraminer with just a small proportion of Botrytis
character will suit this dish. The “Lillypilly 2002 Noble Sauvignon Blanc” is my
choice for this dish.
Smoked rainbow trout, roasted walnuts and lemon butter sauce
Seafood at a restaurant seems to be a favourite, so it’s important not to
ruin that experience by over-powering, or for that matter, under-powering
the dish with the chosen wine. Rainbow trout is a delicately flavoured
fish. When it’s smoked, the flavour increases and changes. Add roasted
walnuts and green apple, you introduce another flavour. Top with a lemon
butter sauce and again, our requirements change.
White wine with fish and red wine with beef is not good enough. It’s
important to match, or contrast, the flavours. However, I would still
match this with a white, Unoaked wine.
The nutty flavours could be matched with a leesy unwooded chardonnay or a
Semillon which has developed honey and lemon butter characters with age.
The “McWilliams Elizabeth Semillon 2003 ” with honey, lemon butter flavours,
finished with lemony acid, would be a lovely match with this dish.
“Sichuan and sesame crusted roo fillet”
Kangaroo has a strong flavour so it requires a robust, full-bodied wine.
The sweet Sichuan spices and the delicate nuttiness of the sesame seeds
need a ripe-styled wine with generous fruit, firm acid and gentle tannin.
Big flavours for big wine are generally the rule, so a McLaren or Barossa
Shiraz would work, as would a Mudgee Shiraz. Try the “Andrew Harris
Mudgee Premium Shiraz 2003 ”.
The Mudgee reds tend to be round and
ripe wines. These characters work well with the strong flavours in
this dish. This is a very appealing red, which offers plenty of
Shiraz flavour, good structure and mouth feel, with sweet, toasty oak.
Australian Shiraz is always a good choice. You can safely buy a Shiraz
from any region and enjoy a rewarding wine.
Spanish piquillo peppers filled with salted cod brandade, cremolata and green leaves
A magnificent dish, a work of art on the plate, with a melt in your mouth
texture and complexity of Mediterranean flavours. The dish was a perfect
balance of olive tapenade, pine nuts, roasted peppers and the creaminess of
the cod, lifted with the green leaves and herbs.
The wine I chose to match
this was a Pinot Noir from Victoria. Pinot is a good food wine as it has
lovely aromatics, good structure and acid with delicate fruit flavours and
fine tannins. The “De Bortoli Windy Peak 2005 Pinot Noir” has appealing dark
cherry fragrance with a touch of vanillan oak. The cherry and plum fruit
balances the olive and salty flavours while the clean, sweet acid clears
the oiliness from the palate. |